Hesteyri: A Day Trip to Hornstrandir’s Abandoned Village by Boat

Hesteyri is the most accessible corner of Hornstrandir, the roadless nature reserve at the northern tip of the Westfjords. You do not need to be a multi-day trekker to see it. A scheduled summer boat runs from Ísafjörður harbour, drops you at an abandoned village for a few hours ashore, and brings you back the same afternoon. It is a full day out of Ísafjörður with almost no walking required beyond the village itself.

What Hesteyri Is

Hesteyri was a small fishing and whaling community with a herring reduction station nearby at Stekkeyri. The village lost its population through the late 1940s and was largely abandoned by 1952 when the station closed. Today Hornstrandir has no roads and no permanent residents; the whole reserve is protected and reached only on foot or by boat. What remains at Hesteyri is a scatter of empty timber houses in a green valley by the water, plus the old Doctor’s House (Læknishúsið), which runs as a small guesthouse and café through the summer season and is known for its coffee and pancakes.

Getting There by Boat

Scheduled passenger boats cross from Ísafjörður harbour in summer, roughly mid-June to mid-August. The crossing takes about 70 minutes each way, though it varies with the operator and sea conditions, so allow flexibility. On the water you may pass seals or the occasional whale. On a standard day-trip you get a few hours ashore before the return boat — enough to walk the village, hear its history, and stop at the café, but not enough to wander far. Because schedules and the exact window ashore change year to year, confirm the current season’s timetable at the harbour or with your operator before you commit to a plan.

• Getting there: scheduled boat from Ísafjörður harbour, summer only (about mid-June to mid-August); no road access exists.
• Crossing time: roughly 70 minutes each way; budget a full day door to door.
• Time ashore: a few hours on a standard day trip — verify the exact window for the current season.
• What to bring: waterproof jacket and layers (the sea crossing is cold and open), sturdy shoes for uneven ground, water and a snack, and cash or a card for the café, since there are no shops.
• When to go: July and early August give the mildest weather and the most reliable sailings.

What to Expect on the Ground

Hesteyri rewards a slow walk rather than a checklist. Expect empty houses kept up as summer cabins, the foundations of the old station across the bay, and Arctic terns and other seabirds overhead. There is no cell signal to rely on and nowhere to shelter beyond the café, so dress for whatever the day brings. A guided crossing adds context — who lived here, why they left — that the quiet village does not otherwise give up.

Where to Stay

Base yourself in town at The Ísafjörður Inn. It sits a short walk from the harbour where the Hesteyri boats depart, so on sailing day you can be at the dock in minutes rather than driving in from out of town — useful when a morning departure hinges on the tide and weather. Book direct on Ourhotels.is for the best rate.

Photo: NN via Wikimedia Commons, Public domain.